Writing under the peppercorn tree at the Telegraph Station

Having completed all our maintenance jobs we have had time for a bit of sightseeing. Hartley Street has several of the older buildings with verandahs to keep cool, near the heritage precinct where we visited the tourist facility for the Royal Flying Doctor Service, a great story and service.

At Traeger Old Timers Museum, part of the Old Timers retirement village set up by Rev. John Flynn (of the RFDS and Inland Mission), we met a special old lady called Ruby who volunteers there and has donated many of the items on display. Ruby’s stories of her early adventures driving around Australia with her sister, then her life on Ti-Tree station after marrying the head stockman and later moving into Alice after the station was compulsorily purchased, were so fresh first hand; we find it very poignant that soon these precious stories by the old people will no longer be heard. The National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame however is doing a great job of showing women’s achievements, including a national celebration of Australian women who were first in their field. In our 2014 blog we mentioned Molly Clark of Old Andado station; Molly was responsible for initiating and promoting the project.

Araluen art precinct houses the lovely Territory gallery which showcases Aboriginal art as well as cutting edge exhibitions without being exhausting. Modern stand outs were two video pieces, The first by Arnala Groom titled “Does she know the revolution is coming?”, based on a conversation with an ex-PM’s wife at a posh NY party with indigenous artists as token invitees – wonderful political satire about how clueless the political class is about Aboriginal issues and art.  The second was called “Red”, with Cate Blanchett as part of a creation myth involving sexually cannibalistic red-back spiders! Is there nothing that fabulous actor cannot do?! The place will be abuzz later in June when the Beanie Festival takes over. The day has been topped off delightfully with one of those chance events that make your day. We were at The Old Telegraph Station, where the telegraph signals to London were boosted on their way north from 1872 until the early part of the last century, and where there is great banana bread made on the premises. Chatting as you do to the lovely lass running the place and she said to Helen “don’t I know you from somewhere?” She hails from Adelaide so we mentioned having family in McLaren Vale, then she says, “do you know Alice, Jesse, Nina Keath and their mum Margie?”. Who of course is H’s sister! Kate West is her name and she’s wondering about making a move to Melbourne where her mother is based. Funny isn’t it?

Well, we are ticking off the last things to do before we fuel up with 300L ready for the march westward. Ian’s just had a second physio session, and is feeling up for almost anything. The weather has warmed, there is a mackerel sky we’ll keep an eye on, but all the signs are go. It’s interesting how in the course of the usual banter people ask “which way you headed?”, there being north/south or east, but when we say west folk sort of glaze over and a bubble appears with “must be f…..n mad” overhead. This probably from someone pounding their vertebrae and taking tumbles at 70kph on the way to Finke! We have discovered the road we want is more travelled than we thought and in better condition as it is off the usual 4WD beat.It is the main road for aboriginal people out to their traditional lands in the Gibson, including Papunya, Kintore, Kiwikurra and Kunawaritji.

Looking east along Gary Junction Road towards Mt Liebig

We have attached here a picture of tomorrow’s road, which we think is very alluring. More on the web if you are curious eg https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Junction_Road

On our last morning we are at cousin Celia's place at Campfire in the Heart, with more stimulating conversation over tea  and cake. She has kindly invited us sit here to finish this post in the surroundings she is so at home in, on the outskirts of town. A dingo has strolled past, we watch various honeyeaters and wattle birds, and Levi the lizard, and take a journey along the labyrinth to the heart and back. Lovely to share a home base for a short time, thanks Celia

What can be said about why we enjoy this travel so much? What does it offer that is different? For us it puts fuel back in the tank. Just staying in Alice has been special time because we have let go of an agenda. We haven’t even cooked for a week, been out every night to a different restaurant, in other words we’ve done what most people do on holiday…very little. But no, we’ve done heaps of preparation, stuff that comes to mind when you give yourselves time to think carefully. And now we are itching to be off on the next part of this challenge. Sometimes the road is very testing (where everyone else has been), other times it is a dream-like scrolling-by of rolling hills and ranges, birdlife and vegetation that can seem like a David Attenborough documentary (some imagination needed here). It is satisfying trying to anticipate our needs and reflecting at the close of a journey that it all went to plan…better than plan. For us, more than other ways of holidaying, it is rewarding.

Alice Springs

Such an interesting and ever changing town, centre of our universe currently as we work through many issues. Very first stop was the car-wash before booking into Gday Mate caravan park, much upgraded since a previous stay. Permits to cross Aboriginal land in SA and WA at Central Lands Council and Ngaanyatjarra Council, no problem. Conquering the satellite phone hook-up, done. New shock absorbers on the van, done. Getting to know all the welding businesses in town to remake brackets to fit a new water tank – too easy! Actually this was a long job but they are all so friendly and helpful and we now know the back streets of Alice quite well. Ian is too modest but his wife can say what a clever and innovative problem solver and fixit man he is! Pop-riveting, tank fitting, hose repairs, and the latest a rope and pulley system designed to make it easier to close the camper trailer (Bunnings is now a very familiar stop). This is necessary for his sore back that has necessitated a longer stay than we anticipated in Alice. Helen’s persuasive powers with the caravan park worked to extend our stay despite it being full - the Finke Desert race means all Alice parks are heaving with every sort of tent, camper, and caravans ranging from basic to gin-palace. We cannot imagine towing a monster and being restricted to bitumen, or needing to always hook-up to power, thanks to our 2 extra batteries and an inverter. 

No bigger utes than this Texan!

Ian being a designer, the evolution evident in caravan and especially camper trailers is very interesting - an ongoing mental exercise imagining how our humble rig might be further Improved. Australian manufacturers who until recently could charge $50-60,000 for a hard-floor camper are competing with Chinese product below $20k.
A classier offroad caravan "Aussie made" for $65k

Check out this European option in which our dear friends Hamish and Heather will be living for some months in UK and Europe!

Our beloved Prado is probably the oldest vehicle here and touch wood has never missed a beat. The old Aussie Swag camper is almost the roughest in the Park.

In between we have had tea and crumpets at cousin Celia’s place, and made contact with Maya Cifali, who has lived here for 35 years and has been very close to and involved with indigenous issues. Over Sunday roast at the Todd Tavern and the following evening at her charming house and garden Maya has been fascinating to talk with and has shone light on aboriginal issues that have had us wondering for a long time. We are looking forward to reading her book on her early life in Egypt. Thanks Suzanne for giving us the contact and a new friend. 

We are being idle about cooking, and our favourite eating hole is Casa Nostra – Italian pizzas, pasta and byo, (since supplanted by Hanuman at the Hilton). We have actually explored other culinary delights: Indian, Chinese, a great steak in the most hideously noisy tavern, and a good salad lunch at the Olive Pink gardens, a bit drier and less maintained than the loveliness I remember on previous visits. We are enjoying being in range to make contact with friends and family – very excited to hear about the VCAT win for the community against the Shell petrol station complex in Woodend. Next post we’ll talk a bit about our forthcoming adventure on the Gary Junction track through the Gibson desert west from Alice.